A long-standing fixture in this city's lively Annex area, Dooney's Cafe offers a wonderfully eclectic menu, a warm atmosphere and great value, all presided over by owner and local treasure, Graziano Marchese. Graz, as he's known, is a true character who loves his customers and whose customers love him.

Up until now, Dooney's Cafe's claim to fame was their David and Goliath style battle with their landlord, which they won with the help of their community and a coffee franchise. We're here to tell you that if that's all you know about Dooney's, then you are missing out.

For years this quiet cafe has been a home away from home for this vibrant community. Attracting a wonderfully varied and creative clientele, one can find some of this city's most well-known writers, journalists and politicians sipping the city's best cafe latte, enjoying a meal or engaged in an animated conversation.

The space itself is spare, yet warm. The inviting bar that runs almost the whole length of the restaurant anchors the long rectangular room. High ceilings, exposed brick, coffee-coloured walls and darkly stained wood tables and chairs give it a polished yet casual feel that immediately makes you want to get comfortable and stay a while.

Dooney's offers four separate menus - breakfast, lunch, dinner and brunch - full of unique dishes that represent the marvelously multi-cultural area in which the cafŽ is located. As Graziano says, "All four corners of the world converge here in the Annex and on our menus." These menus change every few months to incorporate both customers' tastes and seasonal availability of ingredients.

On our most recent visit to Dooney's, we dropped in at around 5:30 PM and found the place buzzing. The majority of tables were filled with people having a late afternoon snack, an after-work beer or, like us, an early supper.

We began our meal with two of their tasty appetizers. The grilled calamari ($7) was a delicious combination of tender seafood tossed with green beans, tomato and red onion, dressed with tangy red wine vinaigrette. Our other choice was the roasted portobello, grilled vegetable and goat cheese appetizer ($7.50). This visually striking plate of impeccably fresh vegetables and creamy ch?vre drizzled with a rice vinegar-balsamic blend was great. Both were a healthy and refreshing way to begin our meal.

Since we went light on the starters, we chose two of Dooney's heartier entrŽes that just happen to be signature dishes from Executive Chef Damian Harrington. Roasted chicken breast ($15) is elevated from common to special with its stuffing of ch?vre, sun-dried tomato and fresh basil. Served with tender-crisp seasonal vegetables, mixed greens and marinated tomatoes, this dish is a carb-counter's dream.

If we had to pick a showstopper, it would be the duck confit ($15). This fantastic plate consisted of two duck legs with crisp skin and fall-off-the-bone meat perched atop sweet beet disks, spring carrots, garlic fried spinach and a rosti-style potato cake. This one would be at home on any five-star restaurant menu, but here it's offered at a price that fits into anyone's weeknight budget.

To go with your meal, the short but varied wine list covers all the bases at the same great value as the food. With bottles from New Zealand, Chile, Italy, Ontario, Australia, California and France, there is something for everyone.

To satisfy your sweet tooth, Dooney's offers a very large selection of decadent desserts ($4.75 - $5.50) that are all tempting. Brought in fresh from several different local bakeries, customers spend a long time choosing from a variety of cakes, pies, cheesecakes and featured pastries sitting pretty in the display case.

Whether you go to Dooney's CafŽ for a great meal, a coffee and dessert, or a quick snack, we promise you that this warm and inviting establishment will charm you. As Graziano says, "At Dooney's, customers become friends."

Dooney's is open seven days a week from 10 AM until 1 AM on weeknights and 2 AM on weekends. Reservations are accepted but walk-ins are always welcome.

Dooney's Cafe
511 Bloor Street West
Toronto, Ontario
Phone: 416.536.3293